Whisk together flour(s), baking powder and soda, spices, salt, nuts and raisins. Set aside.
Combine all wet ingredients until just mixed.
Add the dry mixture to the wet and stir until mixed well.
Taste the batter. Is it to your liking? If not, add more sugar or spice, then pour into the prepared pan. On a folded dishtowel, tap the loaf pan down a couple times to distribute the batter evenly. If you want a design, swirl a knife or offset spatula back and forth across the batter, then sprinkle with chopped nuts and pumpkin seeds.
Bake on the center rack for 50 - 55 minutes.Begin checking five minutes prior to the earliest finish time. Bake until the bread's just set and a toothpick comes out with very few crumbs or clean. It's better for the bread to be underdone and able to continue baking on the counter, than overdone.
Remove pan from the oven and let stand for 10 minutes, then transfer the bread to a wire rack. Enjoy warm or cooled. This bread is perfect on its own, but really good with butter or cream cheese too.
For help skinning hazelnuts, a video with Julia Child.
I prefer a full size loaf, so walked the "holy heck is it going to overflow" line. This bread passed, so can be made in an 8X4 pan. The batter looks full in that pan and rises above the rim, but doesn't overflow. A 9X5 makes a low profile loaf, which has a beauty of its own.
If omitting raisins and nuts, lessen the bake time by about five minutes.
This bread has "just enough" sugar. For a sweeter loaf, increase the sugar to your liking.
To prevent the nuts and raisins from sinking, add to the flour mix before the wet ingredients.
For crunchy on the out and soft on the in, leave bread on a rack loose tented with foil. For soft inside and out, store airtight.